Electronic Aids

Tech on Track

In the relentless pursuit of speed, precision, and consistency, today’s race cars rely on more than just the driver’s skill. Behind the wheel, a network of advanced electronic systems works in harmony to keep the car balanced, responsive, and competitive. From traction control that tames wheelspin, to ABS that sharpens braking stability, to ECU mapping that fine‑tunes power delivery and fuel strategy—these aids are the unsung heroes that can make or break a lap. Understanding how they work, and how to adjust them, is a vital skill for any driver or engineer aiming to unlock a car’s full potential

Traction Control

First things first, what does traction control actually do?

In simple terms, it’s an anti‑wheelspin system. If you accelerate too aggressively and the driven wheels start to spin, traction control (TC) steps in by reducing engine power, helping you maintain grip and keep the car moving smoothly.

Every car’s TC system is unique, as it’s designed by the manufacturer. Most cars feature at least one adjustable setting, TC1, while some also have a second, TC2. These settings allow you to fine‑tune the car’s behavior to suit your driving style and track conditions, especially when battling oversteer.

• TC1 – Controls how much wheel slip is allowed before the system intervenes and cuts power

• TC2 – Determines how much power is reduced once TC1 has been triggered

A good rule of thumb is to keep TC1 and TC2 within ±1 of each other. Higher values will make the car more stable and reduce the risk of spinning, but at the cost of outright speed. Lower values allow more slip, which can mean faster lap times, but also more oversteer and a greater chance of losing control.

The goal is to run these settings as high as possible without hurting lap time. This approach not only helps protect your tyres from excessive wear but also keeps your pace consistent over a stint. For less experienced drivers, higher TC settings can make the car easier to handle and reduce the risk of incidents.

In short:

• High TC = safer, more stable, but slower

• Low TC = faster potential, but riskier and more demanding to drive.

Antilock Braking System (ABS)

The Antilock Braking System (ABS) is designed to prevent your wheels from locking under heavy braking. When a wheel locks, it stops rotating and you instantly lose all steering control for that wheel, a major cause of road accidents before ABS became standard in the early ’80s.

ABS works by rapidly releasing and re‑applying brake pressure through an electronic control unit, allowing the tyres to maintain grip while slowing the car. In road cars, this makes braking safer and more predictable, especially in poor conditions.

ABS in Motorsport

In racing, ABS was once controversial — some felt it removed a key driver skill by letting a computer decide brake pressure. Today, it’s widely used in closed‑wheel GT and saloon cars, where it can be tuned to suit conditions and driving style.

GT cars typically use a scale (e.g., 1–11) where:

• 11 = maximum ABS intervention (most stability, longest braking distance)

• 1 = minimal ABS intervention (shorter braking distance, higher risk of lock‑up)

• Off = no ABS at all

Lower ABS settings can deliver better braking performance but demand more precision from the driver.

Finding the Right Setting

A good starting point is to run a higher ABS value for stability, then gradually reduce it until you find the lowest setting you can comfortably control.

• New drivers benefit from higher ABS to avoid instability

• Experienced drivers can run lower ABS, relying on skill to manage brake pressure and car balance

The aim is to brake hard without triggering ABS, because once it activates, braking performance drops slightly, extending your stopping distance.

How to Tell ABS is Engaging

• Visual cue: The ABS/Brake Pedal Bar in the HUD flashes amber

• Audio cue: A distinct ticking or clunking sound as the system pulses the brakes

• Pedal Haptics: Physical vibration induced through your pedal system (requires compatible hardware)

Pro Tip

During practice, with tyres at optimal pressure, watch the pedal graphic. If ABS is flashing amber:

• Lower the ABS setting slightly

• Refine your brake pedal control to avoid triggering it

In Short

• Higher ABS = safer, more stable, longer braking zone

• Lower ABS = shorter braking zone, more risk of lock‑up, requires greater skill

ECU Mapping

The Engine Control Unit (ECU) is the brain of your car’s performance, allowing you to adjust engine maps, settings that control fuel consumption, throttle response, and power output.

In most cars, the rule is simple:

• Lower ECU setting → Higher power & torque, but higher fuel consumption

• Higher ECU setting → Lower power, but better fuel efficiency

Each car will have its own range of ECU maps, but most include dry maps, wet maps, and a pace car map.

Typical ECU Map Breakdown

Dry Condition Maps

• Full Power / Max Aggression – Highest fuel consumption, most aggressive throttle map

• Full Power / Efficient – Slightly reduced fuel consumption, smoother throttle response

• Reduced Power / Economy – Lowest fuel consumption, progressive throttle map

Wet Condition Maps

• Full Power / Gradual Throttle – High fuel use, but softer throttle for grip

• Full Power / Efficient Gradual Throttle – Lower fuel use, still gentle throttle mapping

• Reduced Power / Maximum Stability – Lowest fuel use, very gradual throttle for wet grip

Pace Car Map

• Minimum Power / Maximum Economy – Only for use behind the safety car.

When to Use Each Map

• Qualifying: Always use the highest power, most aggressive throttle map for maximum lap time

• Sprint Race: Same as qualifying, outright speed is the priority

• Endurance Race: Mix maps to balance speed and fuel saving. Lower‑power maps with smoother throttle can extend stints and protect tires

Key Notes

• Each car’s ECU map range and behaviour will differ

• Always check the manufacturer’s documentation or in‑game car data

• The art of ECU mapping is finding the fastest map you can run without compromising fuel strategy or tire life.